Welcome to our Tips Page
Dangerous/poisonous Products
CERTAIN FOODS AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS CAN BE DANGEROUS TO DOGS
It’s only natural for dogs to be curious. But their curiosity can get them into trouble when they get into areas where you store household items such as medicine and detergents. Many common household items that you use everyday can be harmful and sometimes even lethal to your pet.
Foods that are harmful to your puppy/dog
May cause vomiting, abdominal pain and/or diarrhea
Wild Cherry
Almond
Apricot
Balsam Pear
Japanese Plum
May cause varied reactions
Yeast dough
Coffee grounds
Macadamia nuts
Tomato and potato leaves and stems
Avocados
Onions and onion powder
Grapes
Raisins
Chocolate
Peach and pear kernels
Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
Rhubarb
Spinach
Alcohol
Common household items that are harmful to your pet
Acetaminophen
Antifreeze and other car fluids
Bleach and cleaning fluids
Boric acid
Deodorants
Deodorizers
Detergents
De-icing salts
Disinfectants
Drain cleaners
Furniture polish
Gasoline
Hair colorings
Weed killers
Insecticides
Kerosene
Matches
Mothballs
Nail polish and remover
Paint
Prescription and non-prescription medication
Rat poison
Rubbing alcohol
Shoe polish
Sleeping pills
Snail or slug bait
Turpentine
Windshield washer fluid
Symptoms of possible poisoning are: Vomiting, diarrhea, difficult breathing, abnormal urine, (color, aroma or odor, frequency etc), salivation, weakness. If your pet should ingest harmful chemicals, contact your vet immediately or a poison control center immediately.
Crate Training
CRATE TRAINING
One of the first things owners teach their puppies is not to potty in the house. One very effective method, one used by most breeders and trainers, is crate training. Not only can you house train a puppy using a crate, but when it is used correctly, the puppy/dog naturally learns to look upon it as a den. The puppy/dog will search out the crate when it wishes to rest undisturbed. The crates success as a house raining tool is simple: puppies will not soil their sleeping area if they can possibly avoid it. But remember a puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can’t watch your puppy, but don’t over use it.
Crates come in different sizes and styles. Choose one that will be large enough for an adult dog of your puppy’s breed to lie down, stand up and turn around easily. Many breeders use fiberglass airline approved carriers. Avoid crates with zinc nuts and bolts, they can be very poisonous if swallowed. Wire crates work well and fairly portable.
Put the crate in a location close to other family members to lesson the puppy’s anxiety. Move the crate from the kitchen or family too, to the bedroom at night, so your puppy will feel like part of its new family. Remove the puppy’s collar before it goes in the crate. Then be prepared for the pup’s first experience with crate training: it will probably cry or whine. Offer a treat and close the door. Leave the room, but remain nearby. At first sign of separation response, such as barking, whining, or howling, intervene with a sharp NO. Your pup should associate the reprimand with its actions and stop. It may take for or five times but it will eventually settle down. Once the pup is quiet, keep in in the crate for 10 to 45 minutes. If it begins to cry, take it outside to relieve itself. Once that’s accomplished, praise the pup, take it back inside and allow it free time outside the crate. If it starts chewing on something other than its toys, respond with a sharp No, take the object away and replace it with a toy. After 15-20 minutes of play time, put the pup back in the crate for a nap, correcting it if it cries. Your pup learns through association, so consistency should help it accept being in the crate after a few tries. When it has been quiet for an hour or so, repeat the process. Be aware that your puppy will need to eliminate directly upon waking or shortly after eating or playing. Also a very young puppy will not be able to hold its urine all night, so be prepared to take it out during the night. Put your puppy on its leash immediately after letting it out of the crate. Rush the pup to the door or carry it if its small, so it can avoid an accident. Be sure it relieves itself once outside. Never place newspaper on the bottom of the crate this will encourage the pup to eliminate there. After you’re sure your puppy isn’t wetting it bed you can give it a towel or blanket, though it may be more comfortable without one. Gradually lengthen the amount of time your puppy is allowed to play. When its 5-6 months old it should be able to control itself for an hour or so between trips outside.
The crate also aids in curbing destructive behavior, such as uncontrollable chewing. As your puppy matures and shows it can be left loose in the house, give it that privilege. The crate cannot stop your puppy’s need to chew when its teething, so provide it with safe chewable toys and nylon bones. If it continues to chew beyond the teething stage (about 8 months), its probably bored, so try to spend more time with it. By the time it is 8 months old, it should be able to walk around the house for most of the day once it has been taken outside relieve itself. By 1 year, it should be mature enough to be trusted all night in the house. But keep the crate set up with the door open, your pup will become attached to its own private “den” and will look for it.
Crate training is the best possible thing you can do for your puppy. While transporting in your vehicle, putting your dog/puppy in a crate is the safest way to travel with your pet. If an accident should occur, your pet will be safest inside the crate. In case of being thrown from the vehicle or when your car door is opened, your pet will not run down the road. The paramedics are there to save you not chase your pet down the street. But is crated, the the emergency service people will see to it your pet is cared for and taken to a safe place. The same holds true for leaving your pet home alone. If your home should catch fire, the firemen will try to save your pet if it is confined. They will not take the time to search under beds or the sofa to find and rescue your pet. There are stickers available in pet retail stores that will be a notice to emergency service staff that your have a pet in a crate in a specific area of your home.
Basic Care Tips
HOUSEBREAKING
All dogs can be housebroken if you are consistent, as well as persistent, in training them. There are two basic housebreaking techniques: crate training and paper training. Crate training is preferred because it teaches direct housebreaking. Paper training should be an intermediate step, unless you deliberately want your puppy to continue eliminating in a designated place indoors.
Paper training: cover the entire floor of a confined space with paper. Wait for your puppy to use the paper, then replace the soiled paper. Once your puppy seems to understand the paper concept, begin to leave an area without paper.
Crate Training: When indoors, keep your your puppy in the crate or under close supervision. Take your puppy out frequently, and give your puppy lots of praise for relieving itself. It wont be long before your puppy gets the concept of only eliminating outdoors.
FEEDING
Three feedings a day are usually adequate for young puppies. At around 4-6 months old, try cutting back to two meals. Most dogs can be fed only once a day when they reach adulthood.
If you want to discourage picky habit, try to feed at regular times in regular amounts. Do not leave food down any longer than 10-20 minutes. Always provide fresh, clean water.
BATHING AND GROOMING
In general. You only need to bathe your puppy/dog when it is dirty or smelly. Bathing too often can remove natural oils, making your pet’s coat and skin too dry.
Brush your puppy/dog at least once a week. Brushing helps stimulate natural coat oils, prevents tangles, and is a great way to check for external parasites, such as fleas and ticks.
Grooming should be a comfortable experience for your pet. This should not be too difficult if done on a regular basis. This should be an enjoyable, bonding time between you and your pet.
BRUSHING YOUR PET’S TEETH
Although dog biscuits and bones may have some benefit, they do not prevent the build up of plaque and tartar. This is why it is so important to brush your pet’s teeth regularly. The teeth should be brushed at least once or twice a week. As with grooming, this will be easier if started as a puppy and continued through adulthood.
ROUTINE HEALTHCARE
Establishing routine healthcare from an early age can prevent disease, prolong the life of your pet and improve your dog’s quality of life. Picking a Veterinarian: It is extremely important to find someone you trust. If you are unfamiliar with the vets in your area, use word of mouth to start your search. If the vet’s personality makes you uncomfortable, hindering your ability to explain your concerns, find another vet.
Vaccinations: Some of the most common vaccinations produce immunity to distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza. Puppies receive a series of these shots until they reach the degree of immunity, around three or four months old. Your adult dog will require annual booster shots. Your puppy/dog will require a rabies vaccination.
Parasites: Gastrointestinal parasites are common in puppies. They are easy to treat if caught promptly. Left untreated, they can cause serious harm. Your vet may ask you to submit a stool sample from your puppy/dog during routine visits to keep these parasites in check.
Another common parasite is heartworm. The heartworm gains entry through the bite of an infected mosquito. Heartworms can be life threatening if left untreated. Veterinarians usually dispense preventive drugs that should be continued throughout your pet’s life. A heartworm test must precede the medication.
Spay/Neuter: Spaying (for females) neutering (for males) is a surgical procedure that makes your dog unable to reproduce. If you don’t plan to breed your pet or compete in the show ring, you should strongly consider spay/neuter. Getting this procedure done at a young age, 16 weeks or younger is very healthy for your pet. The younger the procedure is preformed, the quicker they heal, less likely to start marking their territory and definitely prevents accidental breeding. There are many benefits to spay/neuter including preventing unwanted litters and overall health. Discuss your options with your vet.
EXERCISE
Your puppy/dog needs regular exercise to stay fit and healthy. The amount of exercise your pet needs depends on its age, health, breed and temperament. Consider playing fetch, swimming or hiking. Activities you and your pet can do on a regular basis and enjoy together.
Bringing Home Your New Puppy
BRINGING HOME YOUR NEW FAMILY MEMBER,
YOUR NEW PUPPY
The ideal time to bring home a new puppy is when the house is quiet:
Discourage friends from stopping by and don’t allow overnight guests.
First, establish a daily routine and follow these steps:
Step 1) Before bringing him/her in the house, take him/her to the designated potty area in your yard and spend a few minutes there. If he/she
goes potty, give lots of praise. Be sure to take him/her to the same spot
each time to potty.
Step 2) Take him/her to the room with his crate or puppy playpen. This restricted area will serve as his new “den” for several days. Put bedding
and chew toys in his/her crate or puppy playpen. A puppy playpen is
best utilized for a new puppy. There is plenty of room in it for toys, food,
water, bed and a potty pad for accidents. By utilizing the puppy playpen,
he/she can acclimate to their new home and den. He/she will have
constant access to food and water which is essential to the very tiny
breeds. As he/she acclimates to their new den, you can put a gate at
the entrance to the room and leave the puppy playpen door open. Put
potty pads outside the puppy playpen in case of accidents. Remove
the potty pad from the puppy playpen but leave in the toys, bed, food
and water.
After 4 to 5 days your new puppy is familiar with his/her potty spot outside,
has grown familiar and confident in his/her den surroundings and is
now ready to meet the other pets in his/her new home.
Step 3) With gate in place at the entrance of the room/den and an
open door on the puppy playpen, allow other pets in the home access
to looking in the entrance gate to the room. Your new puppy will
be curious and check out the other pets with the confidence of the gate
between them. If he/she gets scared they can move away from the gate
and back to a more comfortable distance. With the gate at the entrance
this will allow the puppy to still have access to his/her own food, water,
bed and toys without interruption.
Step 4) After a few days of nose touching and sniffing bring your new
puppy out to meet the other pets. If there is any aggressive behavior
from either party, immediately put the puppy back in his/her den.
Do not allow any other pets in the restricted den area until complete
friendship has been established.
Step 5) Make sure when not home your new puppy is confined to
his/her den or puppy playpen. This is a safety spot for your new
puppy to rest and play. Eating should be done separately from the
resident pets as well. Your new puppy needs high quality puppy food
and needs to be able to eat freely without interruption from other
pets and children.
Step 6) Time has progressed to the point of not needing the gate to
the room any longer except at mealtime. Your new puppy has
acclimated to his/her new home and friends.
IMPORTANT FOOT NOTE
If you purchased a tiny breed, yorkie, maltese, pom etc.
A puppy playpen is a must have in your puppy accessories.
These breeds need more meals as they eat very little at each
meal. Allowing them food and water access at all times for at
least 4 months is Extremely important and necessary for them
to keep up with heir nutritional needs. At 4 months you can start
to regulate feeding times. Watch closely that this causes no
stress or weight loss. If stress or even the slightest loss of weight
or energy go back to leaving food out at all times. Water should
Always be accessible. This information is for puppies that are
considered tcups or smaller. Puppies 3lb or under when they
arrive to their new home should follow this guideline.
Checklist for you and your puppy
PUPPY OWNER CHECKLIST
Things to have on hand for when your new family member arrives
High quality pet food
Dog toothbrush
Dog tooth paste
All natural organic pet treats
Dog toys
Dog chews (NO RAWHIDE)
Puppy Training pads
Leash
Collar
Water bowl
Food bowl
Dog bed
Brush
Comb
Nail trimmers
Dog towels
All natural biodegradable PET shampoo
(DO NOT use human shampoo of any kind on your pet, very toxic)
(DO NOT use dawn dish soap, it strips all the essential oils from pets skin and hair)
Doggy gate
Carrier/crate
Things to check for around the home that could pose a Danger to your puppy/dog
Change on the floor your puppy may ingest
Electrical cords
Batteries where your puppy can reach
Open cabinets
Ink pens within reach
Important papers
Remote controls
Sharp objects
Basically anything that is within reach of your new puppy that is not designated specifically for him/her.
Not only keep harmful things out of reach from you new puppy, but keep things picked up that will get the puppy in trouble if he/she chews up, such as; the remote for the TV, important papers etc.
